Janet's Journal

Most people visiting Galle bypass the modern town and head straight for Galle Fort on the south western tip of the island.  The iconic lighthouse and Galle International Cricket Stadium are familiar sights whether you have visited the island or not.

Just 119 kilometres from Colombo, the promontory is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the best examples of a fortified city built by Europeans in South East Asia.  It was the main trading port for more than two thousand years, used by the Romans, ancient Egyptians and Arab traders.  It is believed to be where King Solomon obtained ivory and precious spices.  Cinnamon was exported from here as long ago as 1400 BC

The Portuguese captured the port in the mid 16^th century and built the original fort.  The three bastions, known as Sun, Moon and Star Bastions were built to separate and protect the fort from the mainland. During the Siege of Galle in 1640 the Portuguese were forced to surrender to the Dutch East India Company who subsequently built the present fort in 1663 with a fortified solid granite wall and further bastions facing seaward.  

The British invaded, evicting the Dutch and colonised the island in 1796.  The fort was preserved relatively unchanged and used as the administrative centre of the district.

In 2004 when the devastating tsunami hit Sri Lanka the Fort walls withstood the onslaught and diverted the wave, saving the old buildings but not the cricket stadium which was destroyed.  

The late, great Shane Warne galvanised world cricket into raising money for the rebuilding of the cricket ground.  So, the tradition of sitting on the old walls to watch a test match for free has continued.

The semi pedestrianised streets are cobbled making it easy to wander around and soak up the atmosphere.  Many of the old colonial buildings have now undergone restoration and been converted into delightful boutique hotels, restaurants and shops.  

Art and craft galleries display modern variations of traditional artifacts.  Dealers in Sri Lankan gems and jewellery shops are ever present.

The old Dutch Warehouse, built in 1671 is just by the Old Gate.  The rear wall was incorporated in the thickness of the rampart.  The old two storey, long building was rescued from long years of neglect and opened as the National Maritime Museum in 1992. 

 It too suffered major damage in the tsunami losing nearly 80% of its collection.  It is still worth visiting to see many artifacts and exhibits connected with the sea and sea faring over time.

Another fascinating place is the Historical Mansion Museum in Leyn Baan Street. It is a private collection of household artifacts over the last three centuries. Entrance is free.

You can walk round on top of the old walls and view all the sites.  A lot of work has been done to improve the walkway and large granite blocks are inscribed with information about the bastions.  

Walking clockwise from the north east the most notable are:-

Sun Bastion – sit here to view cricket at the International Stadium

Moon Bastion – with the 135 year old clock tower.  

Commandment Bastion – is nearest to the original entrance into the fort.  The Dutch coat of arms & United Kingdom coat of arms are either side of the archway

Point Utrecht Bastion – is where the current lighthouse was built 1939. There are also steps down to the beach

Flag Rock Bastion – is where the original lighthouse was built, it burnt down in 1930.  Now there is just the flagpole here.  This is the best place to watch the beautiful sunsets.  It is also where the daredevils dive off the wall into the sea.

Triton Bastion – the Dutch orginally built a windmill here to pump water up to clean the streets

Clippenberg Bastion – was used as a signal station.  Now early morning and late afternoon it’s fun to watch the locals play cricket on the green sward below the bastion.