There is a subtle change of mood in Negombo now. With the reopening of the airport to commercial flights for the first time since March 2020 there is a feeling of cautious optimism that things will slowly, slowly get a little bit better. The new rules for tourists are very strict as the country tries to find a balance between encouraging tourism and keeping its own people safe.

Bars, restaurants and a few gift shops along Lewis Place have dusted themselves down and are starting to reopen.

Although the local tourist police in Ettukala recognise me, I now have to make sure I always have a copy of my visa and rental agreement to prove that I have to right to be out and about.

As with hospitality and tourism the world over there are some businesses that will never reopen. Others have used the time for building work and improvements in the hope of future customers either foreigners or locals.

It is going to take a long time, but this island has much to offer any tourist from the Cultural Triangle to the cooler Hill Country, wildlife and of course the wonderful beaches

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